Audio switch activated by a clap

[grexbeast]

Thank you again relayer. The first imgur image you posted is the same as the original, that's how I made it and as I said it works for 15 minutes then goes into sleep mode and requires a big bang to get it working again. The second imgur image you posted is what I was looking for. However I have a 5pin 6v relay but for the life of me even after watching youtube videos and looking through circuits online and what you have drawn I still have no clue how to connect it to the circuit and your relay has 6 or 7 pins if I see correctly. Could you please draw it like you're showing it to a kid, just the 5pin relay part? Thanks once again for the great drawings, what program is that? It's amazing.

Also, I've started another project, a switch triggered by an audio signal rather than a loud clap.
I have found this schematic online

http://www.circuitdiagram.org/audio-act ... witch.html

Again, it requires a relay but like almost all online schemes it doesn't exactly show where each wire goes into the relay. It has 5 pins, I have tried some configurations but can't get it to work. Please could you help me with the relay part? I guess many people find it obvious but I just can't figure this out. Why don't they draw it in?

Here are some pictures of the new project

http://imageshack.com/a/img910/9890/f3pFMJ.jpg
http://imageshack.com/a/img905/3523/xooXR4.jpg
http://imageshack.com/a/img910/2783/f4Yagr.jpg
http://imageshack.com/a/img633/4807/pMNwQb.jpg

OK, supplement done.
Click link below:

http://i.imgur.com/RWiu1Jk.jpg

The relay you'll be able to get from Jaycar, the code is: SY-4058.
Once again, ALL the transistors are shown with their bottoms facing upwards.
Also, you are not restricted to using a 6 volt supply. The circuit can easily handle 9 or 12 volts. You may have to increase the value of R5 from 4k7 to 10k, and you'll need to get a 9 volt or 12 volt relay to suit, but the rest of the circuit will be fine. No further changes would be needed.
Jaycar has a reasonable range of 12 volt relays, but unfortunately no 9 volt units. Though 9 volts should be able to work the 12 volt relays with minimal chatter, but worst case, a 9.1V zener in series with a 1k resistor between the Collector and Emitter of Q3 would remedy this.
Once again, please let me know how you get on.
Good luck!!!
Regards,
Relayer

[grexbeast]

I just found this
http://www.buildcircuit.com/how-to-use-a-relay/

It helped me a lot to understand how a relay works but the new circuit doesn't activate it. I've connected it to a mp3 player and nothing is happening. I've connected the relay correctly but nothing seems to be happening. Any help guys with the new project circuit signal detection? Do I need to add something to make it work or what?

[grexbeast]

Should I make a new thread since it's a new project or? Please someone respond guys =)

[grexbeast]

Nevermind, I decided to go for yet another option. Thank you relayer for your help! Also , these circuits seriously need to be improved. The clap circuit only reacts to loud claps doesn't even work when you're further away. It also stops working after 15 minutes?! What's the point of a clap switch if it doesn't react to your claps after 15 minutes? Anyway, thank you!

[pebe]

I have told you your problem. Why not try and fix it with one pot?

[grexbeast]

Thanks Pebe, the 555 fried while I was experimenting with it, I need to buy a new one. When I connect it the way you said I'll write back.

[Relayer]

Hey again grexbeast,

Thanks once again for the great drawings, what program is that? It's amazing.

You're welcome, and the program I use for my pictures is: Micro$oft Photo Premium 10.

Could you please draw it like you're showing it to a kid, just the 5pin relay part?

OK, right click on the link below and open it in a new tab:

http://i.imgur.com/qBxFOtd.jpg

Before I begin, the pin layout of my relay may differ from your actual relay. The NO and NC pins may be transposed. But for the ease of this example, its not important. Though having a multi-meter would help in this regard. Refer lower down this post about getting a meter.
Lets say you want to use 2 guitars, but you only want one to be connected at all times.
You're playing guitar 1. Its input to the relay is into the NC (Normally Closed) pin. The relay does not need to be energized, as this is its normal OFF state.
Now you need to switch to guitar 2. You'll toggle the relay via the appropriate circuitry and it will now move the switching bar (Red circled part in picture) inside the relay to the NO (Normally Open) pin. Guitar 1 is now no longer in circuit.
The Amplifier output is used as COM (Common), as both guitars need to be connected to the amplifier, though at differing times, NEVER at the same instant. You dictate when you want to switch between them.
With relays, you need to remember that the COM (Common) pin is pretty much the end result you want. The NC and NO pins are used to bring in what you want to join to the COM pin.

Now for the Audio Activated Relay Switch circuit you're now experimenting with, you really need to define what you want from it.
If you want it to switch as soon as it detects sound, then what are you wanting it to switch to?
If you want it to say, light an LED when it detects the audio, you need to attach a voltage source to the NO pin and a resistor in series with a LED to ground to the COM pin. See link below:

http://i.imgur.com/SRpbJlQ.jpg

The drawback with the Audio Activated Relay Switch circuit is the it will only switch over for a limited amount of time, then it will revert back to its OFF state when the 1000uF capacitor discharges. You need a latching circuit to maintain the relay in its ON state.

One thing I meant to mention is the fact that you should invest in getting yourself a digital multi-meter. It will make things so much easier when checking circuits, polarity, resistance etc. If you live in Australia, then the auto-ranging one priced at $10.22 from Jaycar Electronics is a bargain for a beginner. Here's the link: Jaycar
Lastly, it would be easier for you if you made a variable power supply. Say 0~15Volts. You can run it from an 18V plugpack. If you're interested I can make a schematic for you, you get the parts and assemble it on Veroboard. I can also help with the veroboard layout.
I hope the above helps.
Regards,
Relayer